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CAPTAIN’S LOG

One van, two crew, three years, all the stories.

Behind the Story Ark adventure are a whole lot of misadventures: getting bogged down in sand dunes, lost in a nature reserve, tumbling down a few mountainsides, almost-spelunking through a sandstone gorge, and a fall off a fence with medieval spikes, which needed four sutures and a tetanus shot. The Captain’s Log is where you’ll find out about life on the road with the childless-cat-lady and the cat called Mouse.

Leonie Joubert Leonie Joubert

Hormuz to Hillbrow

From the Straight of Hormuz, to the back seat of an Uber-ride in Jo'burg - a story about the geo-politics of energy, and the daily grind of extreme heat.

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Leonie Joubert Leonie Joubert

Whites only / Slegs blankes

There are cat people. There are dog people. There are people who don’t care much for either, which is fair enough.

There’s another kind, too. The kind us wit ouens don’t like to admit is ‘a thing’ — none of us rooted for the Nats back in the ’80s, right?— but it’s there: some of us clearly like pets more than people.

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Leonie Joubert Leonie Joubert

The last supper

Our restaurant seating is a remake of the last supper: 12 or so of us stretched along a narrow table, leaning over each other to catch the eye of someone further along. It doesn’t have the same sense of foreboding, although it should.

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Leonie Joubert Leonie Joubert

Custard, crown jewels, and the Cullinans

What does this weekend’s anti-inequality protest in the Tower of London have to do with the environmental lawyer whose keynote address opened the World Conference of Science Journalists far away in South Africa?

Everything. The clue is right there in the name.

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Leonie Joubert Leonie Joubert

Custard pie

I tell the bloke in the coffee shop that I'm traveling around the country, reporting on the climate crisis. His demeanour flips to the icier side of chilly.

‘Rubbish, all nonsense,’ he says.

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Leonie Joubert Leonie Joubert

The Devil’s breath

There’ve only been three times in the past year where I’ve thought I might have to throw in the towel on the Story Ark voyage.

Each time, because of fear.

Fear, brought on by heat.

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Leonie Joubert Leonie Joubert

Into the flames

If Story Ark’s departure day had been written as a screen play, it could have been penned by Dante himself. There were no dock-side ticker-tape parades. Story Ark set sail eight months ago, on 6 October 2024, and it was a shocker of a day. There were no streamers, no bottles of bubbly exploding extravagantly over the hull as we hoisted anchor mid-morning on that Sunday, and sailed away from the safe harbour after nearly three decades of living the high-life in Cape Town, South Africa.

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Leonie Joubert Leonie Joubert

Six months in, slow as can be

I used to think that a writer’s retreat was for divas, or wannabes with more money than sense. Until I tried one.

Time. The privilege of time for slow, deep thinking. And silence. Our brains need these to advance an idea and craft a story, in the way that a parched throat needs water. Story Ark is like one long writer’s retreat.

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Leonie Joubert Leonie Joubert

Flotsammed

No one sets out to get into trouble. It’s usually a cascade of small events that take you from ‘fine’ to ‘not at all fine’ before you’ve had a chance to think things through.

Which is how I find myself I’m standing here, pleading for help, and hopelessly ill-equipped for a desert outing.

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